Process for cutting and fitting wearing-apparel.



J. W. OOHN 6; M. WEINER.

v PROCESS FOR CUTTING AND FITTING WEARING APPAREL.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 27. 1914.

1, 1 21,581; Patented Dec. 15,1914.

3 SHEETS-EHEET l.

WITNESSES; I I INVENTORS, N 1 Wm 6km 10. QM, g By mma A TTORNE YS.

J. w. 001111 & M. WBINER. PROGESS FOB. CUTTING AND FITTING WEARINGAPPAREL.

APPIJOATION FILED MAR. 27, 1914.

Patented Dec. 15,1914.

3 gums-811221 2.

WITNESSES v I 113 ((AJXL/ENTORS 1 a,

A TTORNE YS.

,J. W. 00HN'& M. WEINER. PROCESS FOR CUTTING AND FITTING WEARINGAPPAREL.

APPLICATION FILED MAR Z 'I, 1914 1,121,581. PatentedDec.15,1914.

-. s sann'rswlmm a.

(D MAMA A TTORNE YS.

llNlTliD @TATES PATENT @lihlfilii.

JACOB'W'. CORN AND MORRIS WEINER, 01 CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNORQ TOCORN,

BISSMAN &. COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLENOIS, A OOR-PQBJATION OF ILLINOIS.

PROCESS FOR CUTTING AND FITTZNG- 'WEARING-APEAREL.

hpplicationfilcd March 21, 1914. Serial no. 827,686.

. the back halves.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that we, JACOB W. Conn andllloinns Nnmnn, citizens of the United States, residing atv Chicago, inthe county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented an ImprovedProcess for Cutting and Fitting lVearing-Apparel, of which the followingis a specification.

Our invention relates to an improved process for cutting and fittingwearing apparel, and the invention is particularly adaptable for cuttingand fitting such garments as coats, waists, cloaks, etc, for men, womenand children.

- The invention concerns particularly the cutting and fitting of stripedor otherwise patterned material.- In cutting and fitting a coat, forexample, the practice heretofore has been to cut the inner edge of acoat back half along a curved line out of parallelism with thelongitudinally running stripes or patterns. With this procedure thestripes smart appearance.

or pattern lines will intersect the inner edge or seam line of thehalves above the vent,; and when the halves are seamed together oppositelines will converge to points in the seam to form darts in the coat backwhich gives anything but a finished, stylish and Furthermore, the pat;tern lines or stripes will not intimately folthat garments such as coatshave been made with the entire back out from a single piece of cloth sothat the stripes or pattern lines would be parallel throughout. This,however, requires skilful and tedious drawing in here and stretchingthere to work the cloth to fit the back, the results being usuallyuncertain and unreliable. v more, the pattern lines will not accuratelyfollow the curvature of the back.

The main objectof our invention is to provide an improved process forcutting and working two pieces of pattern cloth which are to be seamedtogether in such manner as to keep the stripes or pattern lines inparallelism with the. seam line and to cause them to accurately followthe curves of the body to be fitted, thereby.

The invention is particularly adaptable in the manufacture of hacks forcoats, waists, cloaks or the like,

Gui invention might be said to involve five'essentialsteps.

' First, the proper cutting of the cloth for Specification of LettersPatent. H

Further- Patented Dec. 15, 1914".

In accordance with our process, the inner edge of a back half above Ithe vent is cut straight and parallel with the pattern lines. The nextfour steps concern the working. of these out halves into shape so thatwhen sewn together along their inner edges they will accurately fit aback and the lines will closely follow the curves of the back.

The second step involves the drawing in or shrinking of a section at theoutside of the half below the arm pits, this resulting in thrpwingoutwardly the upper part of the cloth comprising the shoulder andarm-hole sectlon.

' The third step involves drawing in or shrinking of the sectionadjacent the arm hole to further throw outwardly the upper part of thecloth above the arm-pit line.

After the second and third steps the inner edge of the back half willhave the proper curvature but the cloth above the vent line will have tobe thrown back to give the proper angular position to this edge.

, The fourth step therefore involves stretch ing of the area along theouter edge of the cloth piece along the waist-line, this resulting inthrowing inwardly of the part above the correct position, the backhalves having then the same shape and outline 'as though actually outaccording to pattern from the cloth, the pattern lines, however, beingin parallelism with the inner edge of the halves above the vent so thatwhen the halves are sewed together along this edge the pattern lineswill be parallel with the seam and with other and will accurately followthe cniwes of the body.

'L he purpose of our invention and the various steps involved in theprocess can be clearly understood by reference to the accompanyingdrawings in which- Figure 1 is a view' of a coat showing the appearancewhen the back i made in accordance with the old method, Fig. 2 IS asimilar proved method, Fig. shows an old method half and a new methodhalf superposed,

'Fig. 6 shows the shape of a back half after being treated in accordancewith the second step ofthe process, Fig. ,7 is a similar view showingthe cloth of Fig. 6 treated in accordance with the third step of theprocess, Fig. 8 is a similar view showing the cloth treated inaccordance with the fourth step of the process, and Fig. 9 shows thefinished back half after the final treatment-in accordance with thefifth step of the process.

Referring to Fig. 3, the back halves A are cut in the old manner fromstriped cloth, the inner edges 6 of the sections above the vent 0) beingcut along a pattern curve which causes the pattern linesp above the ventto intersect the edges. lVhen these edges are sewed together theopposite lines will con-' verge and meet inthe seam a giving the.appearance of darts as illustrated in Fig. 1. Where thepattern linesare close together and not pronounced such darts will not detract soverymuch from the general appearance. However, where the stripes arepronounced in color and separated a greater distance, the darts willgive anything but a finished and smart appearance. Furthermore, thecurvature of the lines is destroyed and they do not accurately followthe curves of the body.

In Fig. 4 are shown the two halves A of a back just cut from the samepattern cloth as thebacks of Fig. 3. Instead, however, of

' cutting the inner edges 6' above the vent line along curves, theseedges remain straight and parallel with the pattern stripes. T hehalves'could be sewn together and then worked and ironed, but it wouldrequire excessive drawing in or shrinking in some places and stretchingin other places without any assurance of a perfect fit. Each hall}however, can be very readily worked sepl'irately so that when the halvesare then sewn together a perfect fit will result.

Fig. 5 shows a back half out according to the old process superposed ona half out in accordance with our improvedprocess. Our process involvessuch working of the halves that they will be restored to the same shapeand contour they would have had if marily cut according to pattern witht eir inner edges curved. Graphically, and referring to Fig. 5, ourprocess involves the shifting o the upper part of the half A inwardlyinto full registration with the half A and retaining the pattern linesin parallelism with the curved inner edge and with each other.

7 arms, and at the Waist, giving a very til I'l- In Figs. 6 to 9, thevarious working steps are clearly illustrated. The dotted lines in Fig.6 show the outlines of a half A just after being cut from the cloth! Thesecond step of our process involves the drawing in or shrinking. of thesection B just below the arm pit, this resulting in swinging outwardlyof the cloth above the arm pit line, the resulting half A beingillustratec by the full lines in Fig. 6.

The third step of our process involves the drawing in or shrinking ofthe section C adjacent the arm hole, thus further throwing inwardly theclothabove the arm pit line, the resulting half A being shown in Fig.'7. After this third step-the lnner edge 6" will have substantially thecorrect curvature but the entire cloth above the vent line must be swunginwardly to give this curved line the proper angle.

The fourth step involves stretching of the section D adj acent. theouter edge'above the vent line to swing the part above the vent lineinwardly well toward final position, the resulting half A being shown'inFig. 8. Such stretching and'throwing inwardly of the cloth results inwrinkling at the section E along theinner edge 6 above the vent line,and the fifth step of the process involves the absorbing of thesewrinkles, and, if necessary, further drawing in or shrinking along thissection E to fully throw the half inwardly to its final position toproduce the finished half A shown in Fig. 9, and this form is the sameas it would be if the cloth had been cut primarily according to pattern.During all the steps of the process the pattern lines remain parallelwith each other and with the inner edge, and then when the two finishedhalves are sewed together along their curved inner edges the patternlines will be parallel with the seam. The cutting of the cloth is, of

course, made with such reference to ,thepattern lines that when thefinished halves are sewn together the seam .9 will appear midway betweentwo lines, the distance between which 1s the same as the patterndistance between the lines. The back of the coat therefore has theappearance of having been cut from a single piece, the pattern linesbeing all equally spaced and parallel and furthermore, these patternlines will accurately and closely follow the curves of the b0 y,particularly across the shoulders, around he and smart Fig. 2.

lVe have referred to five essential steps in the process. It isunderstood, of cdurse, that in addition to the primary working stepswith the iron, the cloth may have to be given ordinary ironing here andthere to smooth out small wrinkles and to make it absolutely smooth. Wedo-not, therefore,

appearance as clearly showni-h the -se am edge with reference 'to' thepart below the vent line, and then sewing the cu-rv ledges of the halvestogether.

desire to-be limited to the exact forms and procedures herein shown anddescribed.

3; We claim 18 follows:

' 1. Theherein described process of cutting and fitting from stfipedorvpatterned cloth the two halves of a coat back, which consists in first;-cutting each half above the vent outer edge to throw the part abovethe vent line inwardly to get the desired angle of 2. The improvedprocess of cutting and shapin patterned clo'n to form the back half agarment which consists in first cutting a piece with the inner seam edgestraight and parellel with the pattern lines and the upper. and outeredge in accordance with the neck, shoulders, arm and waist, then-drawingin a section of the cloth adjacent the outer edge below the arm pit byvshrinking the material to throw the part above the arm pit outwardly toaffect curvature of'the seamedge', then drawing in the section adjacentthe arm hole by shrinking the material to further throw out the partabove the arm pit line and to bring the seam edge to the desiredcurvature, then stretching the section adjacent the outer edge at theWaist to throw the part above the section inwardly, then taking in andsmoothing out by shrinking the wrinkles caused along the seam edge bysuch stretching.

In witness whereof, we have hereunto set our hands to the foregoingspecification in the presence of two subscribing w itnesses.

JASOB w. COHN. M. 2 WEINER.

mark Witnesses:

MARTIN M. WEISS, BENJ. S. MESIROW.

- Copies 011m: patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents Washington, D. G.

